A new film about Bi Kidude, one of the world’s most unusual and charismatic musical talents, premieres in Prague this May.
No-one knows Bi Kidude’s real age. She claims to be 113 years old, though the makers of As Old as my Tongue believe she’s no older than 97. She is, at any rate, certainly the world’s oldest living performer.
It’s difficult to separate the facts about Bi Kidude’s life from the myths, but there are certain things we can be fairly sure of. In the 1920s, she was a renowned child singer in Zanzibar, performing taarab, an Afro-Arabian style of music unique to the east coast of Africa. Fleeing an unhappy marriage, she left the island to travel barefoot around East Africa with a band of itinerant musicians.
She returned to Zanzibar in the early 1930s, married again, divorced again, and then left for the mainland again. By the end of that decade, she was one of the most popular dance band singers in Dar es Salaam, playing regularly to packed houses at the city’s Egyptian Club. She returned to Zanzibar at some point in the 1940s, and has lived there ever since. Today, she remains a full-time professional musician, regularly singing and playing drums in Zanzibar and at concert halls and music festivals worldwide.
As Old as my Tongue is narrated in great part by Bi Kidude herself. She’s a genuinely larger-than-life character, a tireless performer and a sharp-witted raconteur. The film follows her for four years, both in Zanzibar and on tour in Europe. She talks about life and music, while smoking, drinking beer and flirting with men young enough to be her great-grandchildren. She also lets us into the secretive world of Unyago, the Swahili rites-of-passage ceremony for girls about to get married. She has been a renowned practitioner of the ritual since her teens. Unyago involves an all-night festival of singing and dancing. The bride-to-be learns about all the facets of married life, through songs about topics like monogamy, oral sex and feminine hygiene. The Unyago ceremony is one of the highlights of the film, where Bi Kidude delivers graphic advice on sexual technique in song form, while drumming.
The music for which she is most famous internationally, however, is taarab. This style of music began in Zanzibar in the 19th century, when trading ships from the Persian Gulf had to spend three months a year docked at the island, waiting for the winds to change. Taarab thus developed as a blend of mainly East African and Arabian influences and instruments. Performed by a group of musicians or by a lone singer, taarab’s centrepiece is its powerful vocal melodies, sung in Swahili. Bi Kidude claims she learned taarab as a street urchin, sitting beneath the windows of early 20th-century singers and memorising the songs. The music of taarab is in some ways a microcosm of Zanzibar itself. In the Indian Ocean just off the east coast of Africa, Zanzibar has long been a key point of intersection between African and Arabian cultures. Andy Jones, the director of As Old as my Tongue, observes:
‘Zanzibar is such a melting pot; there are people from all over. What makes you an African, or what makes you an Arab, is as much to do with how you decide to define yourself as how you look, or what your lineage is. You can meet quite light-skinned people who say they’re African, and vice versa.’
Where group identity is blurred and one is asked to define oneself, it can provide a space for epic myth-making. And the myths surrounding Bi Kidude are not only concerned with her distant past; they’re also alive and active in the present.
‘It’s a small island where everybody likes to gossip,’ observes Jones. ‘With any story in Zanzibar, there are always ten different versions, if not more.’
Nowhere in the film is this so clear as in Bi Kidude’s ‘resurrection’ scene. While she is on tour in Europe, news of her death sweeps Zanzibar. The island is filled with public tributes to the singer, and citizens throng the airport to await the arrival of her body. The plane arrives, and Bi Kidude - who is very much alive and well - rides through the city on the back of a pickup truck, to cheering crowds and chants of ‘She has risen!’ How did the false rumour of her death gain such currency in her homeland? Andy Jones has a theory:
‘Surmising from the various stories, it seems as if some of the people close to her, some of her adopted grandchildren, started the rumour because they were running short of cash. If everybody thought she was dead, they could start getting their hands on some of her property. In the film, Bi Kidude says that she was away for a long time, a long tour, so maybe people just thought she was dead. She’s being very generous and diplomatic in saying that.’
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