'Europe's friendliest regional capital' is how the world's media have recently described Belfast and a new generation of tourists is being happily bowled over by the relaxed ambience of this handsome city-port. Rapid changes, all very recent, have brought an exciting dynamism to the place but people still have time to have a conversation with you.

Famous for shipbuilding and Irish linen, Belfast has two airports, two universities, two cathedrals, two riverside venues for mega events, and… just the one Grand Opera House with velvety red seats and gold elephants.The city has rediscovered its waterfront, and visitors to the award-winning conference centre, passengers off cruise ships, and tourists on riverboats keen to see where Titanic was built, and long-distance towpath cyclists are all spreading the word about how beautiful it is.

For a great view downstream, nip up on to the walkway over the Lagan weir: see the crescent of high green hills with the big mountain at the east end, that's the backcloth which makes Belfast's setting so theatrical.

Look upstream to the resculptured skyline, with the pretty Waterfront Hall and its tall attendant buildings in the curve of the river. Look down at the water, is that a salmon swimming in the current? Salmon in the city! The Big Fish sculpture on the quayside celebrates the day this fabulous fighting fish returned to the Lagan. Give those ceramic scales a gentle stroke.

The Big Fish is also a start point for riverboat trips. To explore the magnificent parks that form a lovely fringe of greenery around the city, rent a bike and follow the level towpath out of town.Shop the city centre arcades for damask linen and hand-woven tweeds, visit the independent fashion boutiques, Irish crafts and jewellery shops around City Hall, Wellington Place and Bedford Street or hot-foot it to the Lisburn Road.

Trendy boutiques crammed with hip young labels, limited editions, antique dresses, shoes to die for, alternate with wine bars, coffee shops, private art galleries, a tiny post office, a chocoholics shop and lots of small lifestyle retail units.For less frenetic fashion retail therapy, still with loads of designer labels, try the shops in Bloomfield Avenue BT5, near rock star Van Morrison's birthplace.

For a friendly buzz there's nothing quite like the historic St George's Market on a Friday or Saturday morning. Take in the atmosphere, have something delicious to eat and enjoy a fresh coffee.The clubbing scene is vibrant; Belfast DJs know how to get the crowd up and dancing. Twenty-something trendsetters live it large at Milk or Potthouse in the Cathedral Quarter.

This area, two streets away from Royal Avenue shopping, is a fascinating mix, with gay bars and drag-queen cabarets alongside traditional pubs. In Queen's Quarter, the university area, check out clubs like Shine ('unbelievably hip' – Guardian Weekend) and the Empire bar specialising in live bands.

Excerpt from "Northern Ireland Visitor Guide 2007" by Northern Ireland Tourist Board